Kate Travels: Central America

Black sand, Brown rum

2010-08-30T17:43:00.000-07:00

Kate and Katie's Excellent Adventure came to an end just in time to meet Cami at the airport.

Cami is one of the volunteachers who I met in Chile. Coincidentally, while I was in Guatemala, Cami and her family planned to volunteer in Guatemala City with an organization called ProjectWalk. With our stars aligned, Cami and I enjoyed a short reunion before she prepared for a challenging two weeks in Guatemala City. We had one mission: Get Cami to the beach!

Monterrico is the closest beach to Antigua, but it is not quite like the beaches in Costa Rica or Panama. The black sand from the volcanoes makes the beach unbearably hot during the day. So hot, in fact, that you cannot walk on it comfortably until dusk.

Monterrico's intense sunlight and body-crushing waves kept us off the beach almost the entire weekend. Aside from a few evening strolls down the coast, we stuck to the hostel's hammocks and swimming pools, the latter of which were more like warm baths by noon.

With no where to go to cool off, we sought shade in the cafe at Johnny's Place, an infamous Guatemalan hostel. When we walked in, Cami and I were greeted by excitable Guatemalans who insisted on buying us welcome shots of Guatemala's best rum, Ron Zacapa. The generosity didn't stop there, our new amigos insisted on buying rounds of sangria, cuba libres, and even dinner.

We soon learned why the Guatemalans were eating and drinking so excessively (if not just for the fun of it). It is impossible to sleep through a night in the Monterrico heat without a few shots of rum. We learned this one night too late.

On our first night in Monterrico, neither jungle-strength bug repellent nor cold showers helped us sleep. Instead, we laid awake cursing the humidity and hungry mosquitoes throughout the night. By Saturday night, we got the memo, and by Sunday, we were ready to get the hell off the coast and back to the airy mountains.

Before we left though, Cami and I explored the Monterrico nightlife. With four options for dinner in the one-road town, we stopped at the first cafe with a friendly face. No menu to be seen, an older Guatemalan woman greeted us at the door then cooked up the plato del dia before we could change our minds.

Served with heads, scales, tales and a huge citranella candle, Cami and I forgot about the heat long enough to enjoy a wonderful meal.

On our way back to the hostel, we heard an acoustic guitar and cheerful singing coming from a local bar. Unable to pass up live music, Cami and I spent our last quetzales on cuba libres and sat in for a song.

Too soon, Cami and I parted ways. She stayed on to volunteer at a hospital in Guatemala City while I made my way back to the US of A with my adventures on hold. For now.

Kate and Katie's Excellent Adventure -- Turf

2010-06-22T17:03:00.000-07:00

Beach behind, jungle ahead.

To get to the Costa Rican rain forest, we rode for eight hours on a cramped, sweaty bus made for people under 5'2." Sore and cranky, we unloaded in the underwhelming town of Santa Elena.

Although only 5 kilometers from the nearest rain forest, Santa Elena is a dry, dusty town void of character. It is a place where low-quality, over-priced restaurants and tourist shops with identical inventories compete for leases and everyone speaks English--just brimming with local flavor.

Eager to get out of Santa Elena and see the jungle, Katie and I scheduled a canopy zip-line tour. Two hours later, we had our hard hats buckled, and our belts strapped at uncomfortable and unflattering angles.

Katie was a natural, but I needed a few warm up runs. The zip line "guides" were no help with their mischievous pranks. From all corners of the world, each guide came to Costa Rica to work/play on the zip lines all day.

But as it turns out, taking groups of uncoordinated tourists on the same metal wires ten times a day gets boring quickly. To entertain themselves, the boys would do flips onto the zip line, ride upside down, or pretend to hit you. Even though our guides were bored, and probably mocking us in a modgepodge of languages, Katie and I had a howling good time (once I learned how to use the brake).

Between zip lines, we hiked through the forest, pointed at plants that seemed like they'd be important to botanists, and watched for wildlife. We heard the howler monkeys, then we saw them! The two monkeys were hooting and hollering, chatting away while climbing in and out of our sight.

After 16 zip lines and a "superman" finale, Katie and I retired our flight gear and headed back to Santa Elena to eat pizza and sleep.

The next morning, we took advantage of the hostel's free "buffet" breakfast, packed peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, laced up our sneakers and set off for the Waterfalls. The walk was a lot longer--and steeper--than we expected. The hike that we estimated would be 10 miles round trip, easily became 15 miles with a few wrong turns.

On the way, we passed fields and forests, and took many wrong turns. At one point, we walked down a dirt road in the general direction of the waterfalls and were stopped by the foaming mouth and burning eyes of a vicious guard dog. For a little guy, he had a big attitude.

We backed away cautiously, only to encounter two more dogs in our path. Katie kept a tenacious grip on my arm--the only thing that kept me from running. We stood there shaking, trying to back away calmly. The angry dogs followed us until we got to the main road. With the little monsters out of sight, I laughed nervously while my eyes roamed the road for a taxi.

No taxis passed, but we did come across a man walking with his horse. He said that we were getting close, and had only a few more kilometers to go. We walked over streams and through woods until we came to a sign for the waterfalls. Three more miles. Damn it.

Finally, we reached the San Luis waterfalls. The falls seemed to pour straight out of the sky. Far from snapping jaws and private property, Katie and I relaxed (or rather, fumbled) on the rocks and swam in the icy spring water. The respite would have been lovely if we didn't have the 8 mile-uphill trek back to ponder.

On our last day in Santa Elena, Katie and I got up early to lead the line of tourists to the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. In this forest, we followed scrawling trails in search of elusive quetzals, waterfalls, and hanging bridges.

Since we skimped on the tour guide, we missed out on most of the wildlife, but we found a few lizards and many a picturesque landscape on our own.

Hanging bridge across the continental divide

Are we in the jungle or the secret garden?

Katie, finding her roots. Si que huevos!

Between seas and trees, Katie and I had a great time exploring Latin America together. We are planning our next trip, post-grad school--time and resources allowing. Anyone up for a little ramble through Southeast Asia?

Kate and Katie's Excellent Adventure -- Surf

2010-06-08T13:03:00.000-07:00

Since a week of bliss in Belize wasn't enough relaxation for me, Katie Dowd and I started our epic adventure at the beach. We beach-hopped from Costa Rica to Panama before heading towards the jungle. First stop: Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

On the south eastern Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, Katie and I rented bikes and rode up and down the long, hot, and humid coastline until we found a seemingly uninhabited beach: Punta Uva.

We looked up and down the coastline and there was no one in sight. We were thrilled to have our own private beach until we saw warnings posted on the coconut trees. Apparently looters and thieves also enjoy sand in their toes, wind in their hair and a casual lurk in the woods. Who can blame them? For fear of losing our beloved digital cameras, we took turns in the ocean and vowed not to fall asleep.

But of course, we slipped into sun-infused comas. We woke up abruptly, not to looters rustling the bushes, but to chunks of sand pelting our faces. Two huge grey beasts were thigh deep in sand tunnels with no regard for our presence. As we stood up and gathered our things, the identical dogs looked at us curiously before galloping into the waves.

The combination of sun, salt, and a long, sweaty bike ride sucked up all of our energy and we were ready for bed by an undisclosed, embarrassingly early hour. To avoid the gringo-hunting mosquitoes, we bathed in repellent and wrapped ourselves in gauzy nets. In our little cocoons we slept, dreaming of our next stop: Bocas del Toro, Panama.

We hopped on a local bus at 6 am and made our way to Panama. Customs was...shall I say lax? The bus dropped us by a decrepit bridge. We looked around for a building, a sign—anything—but all that lay ahead was a long, narrow bridge. We followed other passengers over the patchwork of wooden planks, minding the gaping holes that led to the river of phlegm below.

On the other side of the bridge there were more taxi solicitors than border patrols. We presented our passports to a tiny little man in a tiny little office and moved along. After a few minutes of unbearable harassment form the taxi men and no signs of local transport, we agreed to accept a ride to the boat launch, an hour away. We drove through/around/below/over hundreds of acres of banana plantation before we reached the dock. From there, we were quickly shuttled into a lancha, or water taxi, that chugged along until we reached Bocas del Toro.

The first two days in Bocas del Toro were beautiful: sunshine, white sand, jade water, etc. We took water taxis to far away, deserted islands and tanned our hides. But too soon, our luck turned. By day three, Katie and I were stuck in the hostel with nothing to do except play poker and drink. So that we did. Thanks to my unreadable poker face and a little bit of luck, I won the first round of poker, emasculated the men in the hostel, took their money, and went out on the town.

In a nearby hostel, Mondo Taitu, there was a hopping bar, free hookah bongs, lots of travelers and tropical drinks. Katie and I had a few too many Cuba Libres and spent most of the next day in bed, not missing much except for more rain.

On the third day of rain, we joined a snorkeling tour with our witty, charming, and may I dare say, adorable, English friend, Simon. Simon rivals Nick for "favorite person met while traveling." He had the same kind of modest, unassuming nature with an open mind and a great accent. So, yes, on our last day in Bocas we went snorkeling. In the rain. It was terrible.

Cold, miserable, and more than a little bit pissed at Panamanian weather, we hung our suits to dry and gave up on the beach. Next stop: Cloud Forest.

Unbelizable

2010-04-30T14:09:00.000-07:00

If you ever want to spend all day every day frolicking with large sea animals, sucking down Planter's Punch, strolling under palm trees, and/or browning your hide, then go to San Pedro Caye of Belize. These pictures don't need explanations. Just know that I did nothing all week and it was glorious.

Planter's Punch Recipe

2 oz. Dark Rum

2 oz. Orange Juice

2 oz. Pineapple Juice

1/2 oz. Lime Juice

Dash Grenadine

Orange Slice & Cherry for garnish

Combine 3 juices and Rum in a shaker with ice. Shake well, and strain into an ice filled Collins glass. Top with grenadine. Garnish with an Orange slice and a Maraschino Cherry. Personally, I prefer to simply drop the cherry in the punch, thus allowing it to soak up all that great flavor!

For a thirsty crowd, multiply the recipe by number of servings and serve in a pitcher with ice.

Tikal: Temple of the Jaguar

2010-04-30T13:57:00.000-07:00

And the travels through Central America begin. First stop: Tikal.

From the shores of Belize, we flew to Tikal for a day tour. Hot, humid, and full of tourists, Tikal was not the secluded natural wonder that I had imagined, but it was as picturesque as the post cards and worthy of its reputation.

The park is in the jungle—hanging vines, wild noises, shifting leaves—the real, freaking jungle. The dirt paths are well-trodden, but the park is flush with foliage in hundreds of shades of green. With all of the tourists, it was hard to glimpse a monkey or an elusive quetzal, but we could hear the birds conversing all day, with flashes of bright feathers every once in a while.

The University of Pennsylvania has been excavating Tikal for decades and the work they have accomplished is unbelievable. With architecture dating back to 4th century BC, covers over 570 square kilometers with over 3000 palaces, temples, and burial grounds.

In the "Great Plaza" lie burial sites, the residence of the Mayan royal families, and the most famous structure of Tikal: Temple #1, the Temple of the Great Jaguar. Over 200 feet tall, this is the structure most often seen on post cards and web sites.

Walking among ruins always gets me thinking about the lives of peoples past. How different it must have been, and how similar. Were people happier then? Were they obsessed with progress too? What were the popular foods? What did they dress like? Did little kids aspire to be Mayan gods instead of astronauts and lawyers? Did they have our equivalent of "sports stars"? What did they value most? How was the wine? Has there always been an excuse for miserable people to be miserable, whether it be a 9-5 or weed whacking in the jungle? And why are the stairs spaced sooooo far apart? Were the Mayans giants?

All I know is that if "church" was at the top of all of those stairs, 400 BC Tikal is no doubt where religious divergence began.

Last day in San Mateo

2010-04-30T13:25:00.000-07:00

I have avoided writing this blog because I knew it would be hard--to relive the day, to see pictures of the kids, to once again feel all of the love in that little house. It would mean that I am accepting closure, that I am acknowledging the end of my travels. That now, I am sitting around filling out temp agency applications instead of making sand castles in the Caribbean. But having been home for a week, it's time to embrace the time honored cliché: All good things, especially the best things, come to an end.

Chicken Bus decorations

My last chicken bus ride was a poor sampling. Hoping to show my parents what I have been talking about, you know--deafening reggaeton, wheels falling off, engine stalling, packed house, pick pocketers--I was disappointed when the bus was half full and fully functioning. Now that both Chris and my parents have enjoyed calm, safe, comfortable chicken bus rides, my credibility is starting to feel questionable.

The only thing wrong with the bus ride was me. I rode the entire way in a daze, going over in my head what I wanted to say (in spanish) and prepping myself for good byes.

Leaving the kids, Juan and Judith, and my life in San Mateo was one of the hardest things I've ever had to do. Luckily, Juan and Judith made my last day as upbeat and positive as possible with games, smores, and lots of dancing.

As when Nick left, Juan and Judith shared kind, eloquent words and then the kids got in a long line and each handed me a note coupled with a big hug. Then of course, it was my turn to speak. It is hard to be articulate in spanish when you're choking back tears, but I did my best to express to Juan, Judith, the kids, and the other volunteers that they have changed my life, that in three short months I have learned so much—

—to approach every opportunity with an open heart and an open mind—

—to live simply, and to appreciate the beauty in simplicity—

—to always be prepared for tomorrow—

—to live not solely for yourself, but also for those you love—

I know my future is capricious, but one thing is certain: I will be back to San Mateo. I will once again laugh and cry under that worn tin roof. And I will be at home.

Del cielo cayó una rosa

Mi madre la recogió

Se la pusó en el cabello

Y que linda se miró

Semana Santa!

2010-04-30T12:22:00.000-07:00

Every Sunday during Lent, the processions in Antigua grew larger and larger. By Semana Santa, the processions lasted over 12 hours and employed thousands of purple-robed Guatemalans.

Before the procession passed through the streets, residents would create intricate alfombras, rugs made of died wood chippings, sand, grass, or fruits/vegetables. The rugs, beautiful and time-intensive, are destroyed in seconds as one hundred robed feet pass over.

The processions carried on late into the night, often ending around dawn. One of the most famous processions, La Merced, is depicted below.

The Guatemalan women also play a big part in Semana Santa. Every procession has a women's anda, stand, that is carried by 80 women on each side. The anda is made of long, thick wood and is very heavy. Por eso, the walk is slow and grueling, in tune with the music.

And the music, slow and somber, is one of the most memorable aspects of Semana Santa. Hundred of brass players and percussionists march with the procession, repeating the same somber songs that strike a deep chord with the spectators.

The church, musicians, and spectators aren't the only ones benefitting from Semana Santa. Hundred of local vendors gathered to prey on the big crowds. I may or may not have been subject to sales pressure and caved, of course, buying some sweet shades and a balloon.

Más! más! más!

2010-03-27T09:02:00.000-07:00

This week we raised 800Q ($100) selling jewelry, which is a lot by Guatemalan standards. It's not always that profitable, but we can usually count on $50 a week selling jewelry during break at the language school (10-10:30 am).

The extra income helps to offset the costs of school materials as the kids go through notebook after notebook of tarea. I am reluctant to leave the modest little business without a selling successor, but feel good that a few of the kids have really taken to the art (craft?) and at the very least can have fun with it.

I left some Joyas stands in a few gringrofied cafés so that they could sell on their own. I am hoping the jewelry stands will earn a few extra dollars a month or at the very least spread the word about the orphanage.

The baby bracelet on the top right hasn't sold yet. My team of jewelry makers have a different concept of what fits.

The little sombreros at the bottom are made out of Avacado seeds. One of the older kids, Carlos, carves them during craft hour. Que talento!

más!

Picture me in that chair and you have an idea of what my mornings look like.

She & Him: Volume Dos

2010-03-15T22:28:00.000-07:00

Zooey Deschanel and M.Ward look and sound good together. Photo taken from She & Him.

HUG Project with Appalachian State

2010-03-15T22:06:00.000-07:00

In just one week, the Appalachian State University volunteers built the foundations of a library, cleaned and painted seven houses throughout San Mateo, and experienced Guatemala like true Chapínes.

From the first day, I could tell that this group of volunteers had great chemistry, big hearts, and a good sense of humor—all useful characteristics in combatting the daunting work that lay ahead.

To get to know each other and Antigua, we went to Frida's for some Mexican flavor on Sunday night. Not quite typical Guatemalan food, but all the staples were there—tortillas, black beans, chicken and rice. Plus, Frida's fajitas are divine.

Before we started

Early Monday morning, everyone greeted the first day of hard labor with the good spirits and positive energy that I would come to expect. The week's primary goal was to lay the foundation for a library on the second story of the orphanage. The construction area, however, was closer to a junk yard than a library. When the volunteers got there, the upstairs was littered with toys, donated books, trash, and an unused mattress.

Photo, Kristin Johnson

The mess didn't phase the volunteers though. They were ready for any and every task Juan assigned: a guerrilla war against arañas (spiders), or naranjas!! (oranges), if your spanish is rusty; two hours to carry 555 cinder blocks into the orphanage; or, an overhaul of the trash collection that had become the backyard. In groups of five, the fifteen volunteers attacked every corner of the orphanage, including the dance floor.

The volunteers completely reconfigured the back yard, itemized and organized the existing makeshift library, and prepared the construction area for its cement foundation.

Photo, Kristin Johnson

Although there were two strapping young men in the group, not one of the thirteen girls shied away from the dirty work. Las chicas took turns sieving sand, mixing cement, and plastering the walls.

New Blue Walls—Photo, Kristin Johnson

Library walls afterwards—Photo, Amy Johnson

While a group of five was constantly working hard on the library, the other two groups helped the rest of San Mateo by cleaning and painting seven homes of children who attend the orphanage. By the end of the week, the the locals recognized and greeted the volunteers. And the kids, well, they had fifteen new best friends to play with.

One of the most memorable events of the week was Thursday's lunch. To show their appreciation for the work that Appalachian State did in the orphanage and throughout the community, local women prepared Pepian de Pollo, a Guatemalteca specialty. The women prepared enough for all of the volunteers and 46 children. Although half of the group was incapacitated by stomach cramps, the volunteers did their best to digest the generous gesture.

Pepian de Pollo Recipe

Ingredients:

3 Pounds Chicken — in large pieces
4 Cups Water
1 Teaspoon Salt
2 Large Tomatoes — chopped
5 Medium Tomatillos — chopped
1 Large Pasilla Chile — chopped
1 Large Guajillo Chile — chopped
1/2 Cup Sesame Seeds
1 Tablespoon Squash Seeds — optional
1 Stick Cinnamon
2 Teaspoons Red Pepper Flakes
1/2 Cup French Bread Crumbs — moistened with broth
1/4 Teaspoon Achiote
1 Tablespoon Flour

Directions: Cook chicken in 3 cups water with salt for 30 minutes. Cook tomatoes, tomatillos, both chiles in 1 cup water for 10 minutes. Toast sesame and squash seeds, cinnamon stick and hot chile flakes in a dry skillet over low heat for about 10 minutes. Careful not to burn them. Process toasted ingredients to a powder, then add to tomato mixture. Process this mixture to a smooth paste. Add bread, achiote, 2 cups chicken broth and flour. Process this to a smooth paste. Add this sauce to the chicken. Simmer over low heat for 15 minutes or until sauce is a thick red paste. Serve with tortillas or rice.

Despite the long, hot, and duro days, the volunteers were always ready for the afternoon activities. Every evening we experienced a different element of Guatemala—tours of a coffee plantation, macadamia farm, and jade factory; salsa and meringue lessons; and lots of artisan markets.

"Top Quality" Beans Drying

Jade Mask at Carlos's One-Man Fábrica- Photo, Samantha Lane

Fun, if not effective, salsa lessons- Photo, Kristin Johnson

In just a week, each App Stater became part of a family in San Miguel and part of the community in San Mateo. At the going away dinner on Friday night, the host families provided dinner, the coordinators offered speeches and the volunteers supplied saucy dance moves.

App State's many quirks and personalities made it hard to say good bye on Saturday, but as a consolation, we started planning my visit to Boone, North Carolina this summer. I hope that the HUG projects continue to be this successful, but the open minds and open hearts of App State will be hard to beat.

More Joyas de Hope

2010-03-02T19:26:00.000-08:00

And now, earrings. Again, made from naturally colored beans that Juan and Judith grow in their garden and semi-entirely by the kids in San Mateo.

Earrings are 40 Quetzales, or $5 a pair. Let me know if you'd like me to bring some home for you. Color requests are welcome.

All proceeds go toward the kids' school supplies and come with good karma. Thank you for your support!

Sudor y Amor: Rendezvous in Guatemala

2010-03-02T18:46:00.000-08:00

Although I didn't think Chris would depart from Newark in the face of the latest East coast apocalyptic blizzard, he showed up as planned on Thursday evening. Three days with Chris weren't nearly enough, but we covered the basics: San Mateo, tortillas, sunshine, mojitos, and lava. Next time, we will make it to the beach.

Liquados and views of Volcán Agua from Café Sky

On Friday, we took a chicken bus up to San Mateo where confusing games, rhythmless dancing, and running in circles gave Chris an idea of what I do every day. Always a little shy at first, the kids stared Chris down before making two important judgements: he can't dance, but he is a buena onda.

Chris's interactions with the kids were graceless and thus hilarious. As Chris doesn't speak Spanish, but will quickly remind me that he knows some French, the kids spent a lot of time communicating through body language, namely, grabbing his hands and jumping on him.

He wasn't totally lost in San Mateo, however. As it turns out, Chris is actually quite good at making jewelry—and I dare say that he enjoyed it.

After our trip to San Mateo, we wandered along the cobblestone streets of Antigua. We had dinner at Las Palmas, a noncommittally Cuban restaurant thats cuisine and decor have been cross-bred from various Latin American cultures. We didn't learn much about Cuba by dining at Las Palmas, but we did enjoy two fantastic steaks and learn that there are four glasses (if you pour like Chris) or six glasses (if you're more urbane) in an average bottle of wine.

On Saturday, we deferred our excitement for the volcano trek and filled the morning with ruins: La Catedral de San Francisco and Las Ruinas de Santo Domingo as pictured above and below, respectively.

In 1717, Antigua suffered from a 7.7 magnitude earthquake that destroyed 3,000 of the city's majestic colonial buildings. Again in 1773, a string of earthquakes caused yet more damage, the remnants still visible today.

With much anticipation, it finally came time to climb Volcán Pacaya. Most who travel through Antigua make this hike within the first few days, but I have been waiting patiently for Chris to come so that we could sweat it out together. And sweat we did.

I have been going to the gym religiously in Antigua, but no amount of time on the elliptical could have prepared me for this hike. We stayed at the head of the pack, crossing the hardened lava with the more experienced explorers, but the people to our left and right didn't break a sweat nor skip a beat in conversation.

The messiest without exception were Chris, me, and "el gordo" (the fat guy who the guides kept teasing, offering him a horse as a "taxi." After 999 adamant "No, gracias'," he forfeited his dignity and got on a caballo).

Approaching the lava was like walking into the deepest depths of Mordor; I kept waiting for Gollum to emerge and alter my reality. With or without Frodo, though, the thick mist gathering on the mountainside was too eerie to be anything but the end of the world.

The lava was just a few feet away from us. With uneven footing and masses of tourists navigating their way toward the lava, it is a wonder there aren't more burn victims. Gotta love safety standards in Central America.

And here's the mouth of the monster where Chris made himself useful and roasted some marshmallows, melting his shoe soles and charring his leg hair in the process.

While Volcán Pacaya was the highlight for both of us, the whole weekend was incredible. I was so thrilled to introduce Chris to my little life here and share the sunshine with someone who needs it (first time ever that I am tanner than him). Now, I just need to get everyone else to visit...any takers?

A Taste of Rio Dulce and Livingston

2010-02-21T15:22:00.000-08:00

As it turns out, Rio Dulce is not all that sweet and Livingston has its own flavor.

Last weekend, an easy six-hour shuttle ride to Rio Dulce turned into a fourteen-hour mega adventure my mother considers "dangerous" and I consider "funny." At the time it wasn't that humorous, but the drug dealers and drunks on boat docks, 37 mosquito bites, and competitive card games with a group of ten-year old Garifuna boys (games I instigated in hopes to protect myself from the drug dealers and drunks on the boat dock) are at least a little bit funny in hindsight.

After the aforementioned scenic route to Livingston, I found my friend Anne, as planned, swaying to tortoise shell drums and maracas amidst a mixed population of Black Garifuna, Guatemalan Mayans, and tourists.

This Garifuna music, called Punta, is a traditional style of drumming that is often accompanied by hips that gyrate in all kinds of unnatural ways (traditionally, and appropriately, considered a "fertility" dance). Lacking the joint flexibility necessary to fit in, we kept our hips out of the local discotechs and instead frequented a small bar al lado de la playa.

Next to the beach, I tasted my first "Coco Loco,"a concoction that is famous in the Caribbean. Made from a rum that is soaked in herbs then added to the coconut milk, the drink has a peculiar taste that grows on you by the end (much like most strong drinks). Originally, the herb-infused rum was used to alleviate stomach pains. With attention from tourists, however, its primary purpose eventually changed from medicinal to inebriant.

Lately, tourism has been slow in Livingston. After certain, ambiguous violent encounters between locals and tourists a few years past, the once ripe and lively Livingston is showing signs of decay. The hotels are crumbling, street dogs govern the alleyways, and most of the local bars are two people short of deserted.

This eerie, abandoned quality is augmented by the haunted blank looks of people sitting, dazed on porches while distant Garifuna chants and drums stir otherwise silent streets.

Presently, Livingston is only accessible through boat. The lancha business has supported local families for generations but may be facing its demise. Despite local protest, the Guatemalan government is building a road through the jungle that will connect Livingston to the rest of the country.

With this impending road, the lancha business will be wiped out, costing Livingston its one source of sustainable income, not to mention dire implications on the time-honored language and culture.

The Garifuna that reside in Livingston are descendents of West Africans, Caribs, and Arawak. According to oral history, while delivering slaves from Spain to the Americas, two Hispanic slave ships ran off course and crashed near St. Vincent. The Africans that survived intermixed with the existing culture on the island and created a new African-Carib generation.

After the Treaty of Paris in 1763, the British violently took over St. Vincent and deported all of the African looking civilians to an island off of the coast of Honduras called Roatán. Eventually, the island became too small for the growing community and with Spanish permission, the Garifuna moved toward the mainland, spreading out across the Caribbean coast.

Some locals fear that this intermingling between the rest of Guatemala and Livingston will cause both the local business and local flavor to fade. Just looking around, noting how distinct Livingston is from Mayan Guatemala, it is hard to disagree. Livingston has a foreign feel, a Caribbean cool with an African accent that is unlike the rest of Guatemala. It will be interesting, and quite possibly tragic, to see what happens to this Garifuna community.

To invest in what's left of the local economy as well as to work on our tans, Anne and I took a lancha to a remote beach called playa blanca.

We also went hiking around the Seven Altars, los siete altares. The Seven Altars are a group of waterfalls and swimming pools that run through jungle foliage. But thanks to the dry season that has denied the coast rain for the last two weeks, there were no waterfalls and only one pool deep enough to swim in. Despite its desiccation, the high trees and clear waters surrounding Seven Altars were a relaxing place to nurse my sunburn.

To start the trip back to Antigua, we took a boat tour up the river for which the area is famed: Rio Dulce. Along the river we stopped at various sites such as the Lago de Flores, or lake of flowers. Here, thousands of lily pads spot the coast while local kids paddle around in child-size canoes.

And then there were the hot hot hot springs, aguas muy muy muy calientes, that were too hot to swim in. If you have ever absent-mindedly filled up a bathtub only to sit on the porcelain edge and probe the scalding water with a hesitant foot every ten minutes until it reaches a tolerable temperature, then you can relate.

And the last stop was el Castillo de San Felipe, a castle alongside Rio Dulce that was built in the 1500s to ward off pirate attacks, not all that successfully.

After the tour, Anne and I were dropped off in Rio Dulce, the city. While the river is a majestic force of nature, the town absorbed little if any of this beauty. Rio Dulce is primarily a launching pad, where you grab a lancha and get out. It consists of a maniacal market street where Guatemalans bark out discounted prices and black smoke pumps out of passing buses.

Our place of residence was pleasantly located across the bridge and far away from the market mania. We spent the night at this sweet refuge, books and licuados nearby, before starting the (this time) seamless ride back to Antigua.

los niños y la luna, nos vamos a la cama

2010-02-18T09:32:00.000-08:00

For much of the past month, a quirky Canadian has been volunteering with me in San Mateo. Originally from a suburb of Ontario called Ancaster (not to be confused with my good old suburban home town of Lancaster, Pennsylvania; Pennsylvania not to be confused with Transylvania where everyone thinks I am from, no one in Guatemala having heard of Pennsylvania), I met Nick at La Union my second day in Antigua and have since become an unconditional fan of his shaggy ginger hair, disheveled flannel button ups, and unconventional take on life.

No, I am not in love with Nick. But, if he asked me to marry him (I think I'm in line after Swedish Fia, Danish Anne, and British Sam since a double citizenship with the US isn't all that exciting), I would immediately research foreign matrimony policies. Or in wishful thinking, maybe I already have.

Did you know that Australians who want to marry foreigners have to provide email correspondences from the last two years, submit a photo album, and solicit ten witnesses to write on behalf of the loving and healthy relationship? And in the US, one of the first steps to legitimizing a marriage is a wedding "announcement" in the local newspaper that must be printed at least two weeks in advance. I never understood that section of the newspaper; I thought people were just vain.

Amelia gives Nick his first of 46 valentines

Regretfully, Nick's last day of work at the orphanage was last Friday afternoon. As his going away party coincided with Valentine's Day, Dia de Amistad in Guatemala, the kids from San Mateo prepared heart-shaped cards, jewelry, and bouquets of flowers.

Vanessa and Maybeline with wild flowers.

After homework help and English class, the kids formed a line that stretched the entire length of the orphanage floor. The whole process took a half hour, each child spending thirty seconds to express his or her earnest gratitude in a sad, small voice.

Even though I didn't line up with recuerdos for Nick, I hope he knows I am going to miss our daily chicken bus rides and our off-color conversations over coffee, mojitos, nachos, and the like. While traveling you develop an easy manner of meeting people, but you also get better at saying good bye. I am constantly astonished by the warm, insightful, and entertaining people I meet abroad; people that I would latch onto at home, but here, have to let come and go without protest.

Abrazos from Eric

Among my recent foreign friends is an outgoing and artistic girl from Barcelona named Aina. Aina also works at the orphanage in San Mateo and has some great ideas for jewelry. It's great to have another extranjera's opinion so we can better market the products toward tourists. In its humble developing phase, we have decided to call the jewelry company "Joyas de Hope," Joyas meaning Jewelry and pronounced "Hoy-as."

Makeshift way to show examples

We haven't found a way to make earrings yet, but the kids have created colorful bracelets and necklaces to sell to tourists. 100% of the proceeds go toward the children's school materials, clothing and living expenses. And as the jewelry is made out of natural materials, beans of all colors and avocado seeds, the business essentially yields nothing but profit.

Another makeshift way to show examples

With the kids in school right now, I spend a half an hour to an hour each day making jewelry with the older kids (a different kid every day) and we can make about fifteen bracelets and ten necklaces a week. I am selling most of the jewelry in Antigua, but if you are interested in a necklace or bracelet, let me know and I will happily bring one home for you!

With committed volunteers like Nick, the implementation of revenue boosters such as Joyas de Hope, and incoming groups facilitated by Cultural Embrace, the kids at the orphanage are optimistic about the future. The children of San Mateo sent Nick home with a hand-made necklace, hand-picked flowers, and hand-crafted cards, but he left with more than gifts. Nick has a home and a family in Guatemala.

When we left that afternoon, the kids sang in unison as they do every day—forever hopeful, forever gracious:

"Buenas noches

Hasta mañana

La luna y los niños

Nos vamos a la cama

Nos vamos a la cama"

Un Aniversario Muy Especial

2010-02-12T11:25:00.000-08:00

This week the local language school celebrated its anniversary, which included a special presentation by the kids from San Mateo.

During its anniversary week, the language school passed out fat slices of cake, decorated the place with streamers, and hosted a number of activities for the language school students. Even though I am not taking language classes, I am always hanging around La Union and feel like part of the family.

The language school is constantly throbbing with life, laughter, and is conveniently located between three hot spots in Antigua: Y Tu Piña También, a hip café with fabulous breakfast options; Café No Sé with the best tequila in town; and Café Sky with its satiating mojitos and a breathtaking view of Volcán Agua.

Freddy and his piña, tambien

Considering the constant crowd in and around the language school, Cultural Embrace thought it would be the perfect place to promote its HUG (Hug, Understand, Give) Project.

With intentions to attract volunteers to San Mateo, share a glimpse of Guatemalan culture, sell the children's handcrafted jewelry (more on this soon), and increase awareness about social projects around Antigua, we coordinated a special event for its language students: traditional dances performed by the children of San Mateo.

While the kids performed two dances: "Instrumentos de Labranza" and "Nuestros Tradiciones," Instruments of Labor and Our Traditions, respectively, I explained to the crowd what was going on in Spanish and in English. I didn't realize how much I loved microphones. They had to wrestle it away from me by the end.

Leading the procession with Judith, the orphanage's co-manager

First, the kids performed "Instrumentos de Labranza," which is considered a "Working Man's Dance." It is the traditional dance of los campesinos, those who work in the fields, and features typical labor tools. Many of the children from San Mateo start working in the fields with their parents as early as age 3, executing difficult tasks such as grinding coffee, carrying stacks of woods, gathering flowers, or harvesting corn.

As many children in the villages work with their families at the expense of an education, the HUG project in San Mateo aims to pulls kids out of the field and help them matriculate by providing materials, scholarships, and scholastic support. Thanks to donations and volunteers, we have been able to gather school materials, help with homework, and teach the children life skills about nutrition, computers, emotional health, and hygiene.

After Instrumentos de Labranza, the kids performed Nuestros Tradiciones, a dance that mirrors a traditional marriage ceremony in San Mateo. During a wedding in the village, a pair of children receive their First Communion while the couple is blessed in matrimony.

While the bride wears traditional Mayan attire, the First Communion recipients dress much like Catholics kids in the United States (above and below). After the ceremony, the families and clergy have dinner together. Instead of a honeymoon, the bride gets to clean up after the party and host a celebratory lunch the next day. Lucky gal!

When both dances were finished, we provided a special treat for the kids. They hired a clown, who frankly, was underwhelming in a bird costume (?) and had a short supply of magic tricks. However, most of the kids had never seen a proper clown before, so they didn't notice his/her shortcomings. The look on their faces was priceless.

The event turned out to be a great way to promote the orphanage's aspiring jewelry business. Charmed by the children and Juan and Judith's passion to provide them with an education, we sold half of the jewelry the night of the dance. The following mornings, I set up a table at the language school to vend the remainders. By Thursday morning the rest of the jewelry was gone.

As soon as we replenish our stock, we will start selling the jewelry online and hopefully create a sustainable source of income for the orphanage. Also coming soon—those who can't travel to volunteer in person will be able to support the orphans of San Mateo by sponsoring a child on Cultural Embrace's website.

This weekend, I am heading to Rio Dulce and Livingston to rattle coconut trees, day dream in hammocks and count my blessings. Whether you are sipping on sunshine or clobbered in snow, I wish everyone a peaceful weekend full of love and appreciation for those who make life worth living. Happy Valentine's Day.

Diarios de Bicicleta

2010-02-08T21:26:00.000-08:00

I left Katie's at six am Sunday morning to get back in time for a bike tour around Antigua. I didn't expect the five and a half hour trek that ensued, but despite the sun poisoning, dehydration, and paralysis that followed, we had a lot of fun.

Around 8 am, we departed for the hillside pueblos surrounding Antigua. Emphasis on hill side. The first two hours of the bike tour were on a gentle incline, but eventually we came to a massive mountain that took me a half hour to climb.

I could have walked faster than my bike was moving, but I kept peddling. I didn't want the incredibly attractive English tour guide to think I was a wimp. Minor crushes aside, I made it to a plateau and enjoyed a breezy glide down to Ciudad Vieja, also known as San Salvador.

In Ciudad Vieja, the first capital of Guatemala, we saw the remnants of a civilization. In 1541, Volcán Fuego erupted, causing a landslide that demolished the entire city. Ciudad Vieja was destroyed and eventually rebuilt around this lasting artifact.

While Volcán Fuego is constantly active at low levels, today's more imminent concern is Volcán Acatenango. Acatenango last erupted in 1972 and has habitually erupted every thirty years, más o menos. It's well past its due date.

After a trip through Ciudad Vieja, we rode to a famous Macadamia nut farm called Valhalla. In Norse mythology, Valhalla is known as the "House of the Slain." After death, the most valiant warriors, heroes, and and kings were led by the valkyries to Valhalla where there was a golden tree —"The most beautiful tree amongst God and man."

The golden tree in the Guatemalan version of Valhalla is the Macadamia tree. This farm, run by an eccentric and slightly crude comedian named Lorenzo, was the first Macadamia farm in Guatemala and started in the 1940s. Since then, Lorenzo has focused on preserving the environment and fighting poverty with a memorable sense of humor:

Lorenzo: Believe it or not, before I was a macadamia man, I was a fireman.

Me: Oh really? What caused you to change careers?

Lorenzo: I got tired of playing with my hose and wanted to play with my nuts instead. Ha!

Me: Uncomfortable, forced laughter.

Pubescent humor aside, Lorenzo and his nuts are an asset to Guatemalan environment and sustainability. The Macadamia nut, composed of 30% carbon, is one of the leading oxygen producing plants and is a highly sustainable crop. Lorenzo has donated over 200,000 trees to neighboring communities. This investment has improved local standards of living, promoted reforestation, and provided an edible alternative to the unreliable coffee crops that surround Antigua.

In addition to learning a lot about macadamia's benevolent presence in Guatemala, we also got to try the farm's famous pancake breakfast: two wheat pancakes with macadamia butter and blackberry jam.

And stacked on top of that were free facials and massages. Life is hard, right? The Macadamia nut also produces a nutrient rich oil that Lancome uses in their anti-aging products. At first I was skeptical, but then we met Lorenzo's wife; she is 72 and looks 35. Next time I go to Lorenzo's I am bringing my credit card.

Before heading back, we biked through a famous village called los Dueños. In Dueños, you can find high quality weavings that are as intricate as they are colorful. While we wandered around the maze of tapestries and tunics, an old woman sat on the floor by a body-length beam without once breaking her concentration.

Our last stop before heading back to Antigua, downhill this time, was a lively cemetery. Unlike the cold grey slabs in the United States, the graves here were a range of colors, a celebration of mortality.

From the top of a staircase of stone ruins, we looked over the vibrant tombs, toward miles and miles of Guatemalan countryside. I should have been admiring the vista, but as my eyes followed the winding dirt roads in the distance, all I could think about was how much farther we had to ride under the fierce mid-day sun...and all the nachos I was going to eat, free of guilt, at Monoloco during the Superbowl party that evening. Go Saints!

Buena Vista and Katie's Casa

2010-02-08T21:13:00.000-08:00

This weekend I stayed in Antigua to descansar un poco, but the weekend was full of action despite my intentions.

After a mint flavored hookah at the popular lounge downtown, we flocked to Cielo's where two members of the Buena Vista Social Club performed saucy salsa jams.

In Havana, the Buena Vista Social Club was a well known salsa house where members could dance the night away. Considered the Golden Age of Cuban Music, in the 40s and 50s Buena Vista Social Club provided a place for talented and innovative musicians to collaborate.

In the 90s, some members finally recorded a compilation album as well as a produced a documentary. Both productions were international successes and restored some of Buena Vista Social Club's former glory.

Friday night, Katie Dowd came to Antigua and stayed the night. We went out to dinner at Frida's, a low lit cafe dedicated to Frida Kahlo with mosaics and Mexican artwork adorning the walls. After turning in for an early night, I went to Parramos with Katie the next day.

At the NPH (Nuestros Pequeños Hermanos) facility, I met Katie's friends, some of her students, and ate delicious home made pizza. The NPH place resembles a small campus with well-maintained buildings, lawns, and playgrounds. It's presentation is impressive and seems like a safe and loving place for displaced or abandoned kids to grow up.

After meeting lots of kids and volunteers, Katie and I planned our entire trip down to Panama. There is so much to do in Central America that we won't be able to cover nearly everything, but we agreed on some must-see places—waterfalls, cloud forests, jungles, cave repelling, canopy zip lines, volcano climbs, and lots of beaches—that should serve as a sound introduction to Central America.

Massive Attack is Back

2010-02-03T08:17:00.000-08:00

Dark, fascinating, and always a little psychedelic—Massive Attack is back. Listen to MA's new album, Heligoland, and let me know what you think.

A Quick Trip to Lago Atitlán

2010-02-01T10:12:00.000-08:00

This weekend I went to Lago Atitlán to enjoy the enchanted forests of el pueblo, San Marcos. San Marcos is one of many towns bordering the lake and is known for its mystic atmosphere, but definitely not its nightlife. Although San Marcos did not offer much other than meditation after dinner, there was plenty to do in the sunshine.

We stayed at hotel La Paz in a thatched roofed cabana with bathrooms showered in foliage, a traditional Mayan sauna, and yoga available at all hours of the day.

The walk way to La Paz

Our outdoor shower, equipped with a verdant roofing system.

After practicing yoga in the fresh morning air, Rachel and I climbed rocks and navigated steep mountain paths to find a quiet place to sunbathe. We jumped from cliffs overlooking the clear water, swam amongst miniature crabs, and sunbathed near nude swimmers. We stayed on the rocks until dusk, befriending both locals and travelers as they passed by.

The edge or our perfect sunbathing rock

Despite its peaceful ambience, the empty town became a little eerie in the evenings. Rachel and I got the impression that San Marcos could be a dangerous, albeit beautiful, place to get lost in at night.

The largest street in San Marcos

After dinner Saturday night, we went looking for a bit of revery, but only found deserted gardens and some wandering locals; the winding dirt paths were empty, all three restaurants were closed, and the hippies must have wrapped themselves in their fair trade ponchos and retired to meditate.

Locals doing their thing

When I have a long weekend, I plan to return to Lago Atitlán. A day and half was not nearly enough.

Baile de Nuestros Tradiciones

2010-02-01T09:44:00.000-08:00

All of last week, the kids from San Mateo were practicing two traditional dances: "Instrumentos de Labranza" and "Nuestros Tradiciones." Garbed in traditional Mayan attire, the kids practiced their steps in hopes to give a perfect performance at the language school on February 9th for the school's anniversary party. With their beautiful costumes, cultural insight, and adorable smiles, the orphanage hopes to start a small performance business at local language schools in order to earn extra money for school supplies, clothes, shoes, classes, etc.

Here's a sneak peak of "Nuestros Tadiciones," a dance that reflects traditional marriage ceremonies in San Mateo.

In the dance, the newlyweds are christened at the same time two youth undergo their First Communion. The ceremony is typically performed in the home after a traditional Catholic ceremony and is followed by a lunch or dinner with the family and clergy.

Later, the bride must clean up everything until one or two in the morning while her husband waits for her at home. While tradition varies from pueblo to pueblo, honeymoons are not common and the size of the celebration is dependent on the value of the "vendition."

Flora y Fauna

2010-01-25T21:09:00.000-08:00

While Antigua is a beautiful city, by the end of the week the busy streets and crowded buses can be exhausting. To get away from the urban tempo and channel my transcendental side, I went to Earth Lodge for the weekend with a few friends from the language school.

To get to Earth Lodge, we took a "shuttle," which was actually just the back of a pick up truck, for a half hour up one of the nearby mountain sides.

After passing locals washing clothes and cows grazing on a steep trek down to the Earth Lodge valley, we arrived in time for happy hour. Drinks at the Lodge were based off of the honor system, a method that reflects the easy breezy attitudes of Earth Lodge employees and guests.

With the national cerveza of Guatemala, Gallo, in hand, we found our tents and wandered around. Across a volleyball field were bathrooms, or more accurately, compost wells, and towering through the woods was the Tree House that we had hoped to inhabit. Word of advice: if you want the popular tree house experience—book in advance.

Happy with our arrangements despite being landlocked, we watched the sun set over Volcán Fuego from hammocks and later enjoyed a freshly prepared organic meal.

Walking barefoot in the mountains, dirt between my toes, surrounded by insightful personalities, I considered the seemingly incurable problems facing our world. I thought of Himalayan ice caps melting in my lifetime, of incomprehensible and inconclusive wars, of broken countries and broken homes.

But amidst all of the instability, destruction and corruption, there are still people with hope and determination who are working to redirect the future; not just the quirky, informative, wandering environmentalists we met at Earth Lodge, but also proactive companies like Cultural Embrace.

"Our Children are not Chickens"

2010-01-25T18:27:00.000-08:00

I've been in Guatemala for a week and already feel at home. Between the enthusiastic staff at the local language school affiliated with Cultural Embrace; the glowing faces at the orphanage in San Mateo, a hill town twenty minutes outside of Antigua; and the beauty of Antigua, a city known for its seamless integration of rustic and modern landmarks, Guatemala has surpassed all expectations.

I landed in Guatemala City last Monday evening and was greeted at the airport as expected. Without wasting any time, my instant amigo from La Union, Luis, drove me to Antigua. The capital of Guatemala until the 7.1 magnitude earthquake of 1717 left most of the city destroyed, Antigua is a city characterized by cobblestone streets, immense ruins, freshly painted cathedrals, lively parks, flooding language schools, and picturesque views of the surrounding volcanoes: Fuego, Agua, y Acatenango.

La Union is one of many language schools that facilitates traveling, volunteering, and socializing. The school is a fantastic meeting place where you can take private language classes amidst the school's jungle foliage, on stone benches in the sun, or on a couch next to freshly brewed coffee. Although I am not taking language courses, I have met dozens of people from all over the world who are friendly, interesting, and adventurous.

After a tour of Antigua from Ishmael, the social project coordinator of the language school, I explored on my own. Walking along uneven calles, you will see both local "tuk tuk" taxis and coach buses; chicken buses and hummers; local artisans and expensive jade factories. The disparity is unmistakable, but not neglected. There are many ongoing social projects based out of Antigua where travelers and locals alike can aid neighboring hill communities.

Working in San Mateo, I am part of Cultural Embrace's HUG (Help, Understand, Give) project. While recruiting volunteers, gathering donations, and facilitating education are important for the youth at the orphanage in San Mateo, the HUG project also aspires to help the village of San Mateo become self-sustainable.

Every day I take a chicken bus twenty minutes up to San Mateo to work with the children and the orphanage managers. The chicken buses are crazy: the reggaeton is blasting and tiny Guatemalans are stacked on top of each other.

The women are garbed in brightly colored dresses with long, dark hair braided down their backs. My first trip on a chicken bus was unforgettable. Climbing up an 80 degree slope of mountain, the bus chugged along like Thomas the train engine, only it didn't make it to the top. Instead, the chicken bus stopped midway and I was left biting my nails, wondering how recently the breaks had been examined.

A half hour of engine work later, everyone finally filtered off the bus and hopped into passing pickup trucks. Unfamiliar with truck-hailing customs, I was guided into the back of truck by local women. Half relieved and half fearing I'd fall out the back of the truck, I made it to the dusty streets of San Mateo without any more conflicts.

After the always eventful chicken bus ride every day, I teach English for an hour with Luis, a volunteer from Barcelona. While Luis continues, I then work with the orphanage managers, Juan and Judith, on their computer skills in hopes that they will be able to navigate the internet and advertise independently. When English classes are finished, we have a daily physical activity such as a scavenger hunt, a cooking class, or dancing lessons.

Last Thursday, all 46 children cooked chicken fried rice from vegetables that they had grown in their gardens. Each group of kids had a vegetable to prepare. They worked together patiently and enjoyed their creation as a family. Afterwards, each child had a cleaning responsibility and the place was spotless in minutes. I am so impressed with these kids.

In addition to activities with the kids and technical training with the adults, we also spend time each day brainstorming ways the orphanage can develop a sustainable source of income. By investigating natural resources and harnessing the children's existing talents and skills, Cultural Embrace and the orphanage have developed two plans for related businesses that will thrive off Antigua's tourism: Crafts (namely jewelry, cards, book marks) and traditional Guatemalan entertainment.

On February 9th, the kids will perform a traditional dance to celebrate the language school's anniversary. At the performance, we will advertise and sell the hand-crafted jewelry, made from brightly colored beans, hand made cards, and book marks. Our hope is that with income from its own business, the orphanage can continue to provide emotional, mental, and physical support to the growing minds and hearts of San Mateo while reaching its short term and long term goals without dependence on donations.

As Juan Carlos, a co-manager explains, "Our children are not chickens; they are not helpless. They can give back to the community too."

As Cultural Embrace volunteers arrive in Antigua to participate in the HUG projects, I will make them feel at home like the people here did for me. I am so excited to watch the volunteers ride their first Chicken Bus—Guatemalans dosing, reggaeton blaring, foreign eyes bulging.

There is magic under this worn tin roof in San Mateo; everyone who enters can feel it in the dusty air, in the adoring big brown eyes. I look forward to witnessing the changes that will take place across cultures, between hearts.

Listen up!

2010-01-11T08:37:00.000-08:00

Here's some more music to enjoy. I'm two essays away from finishing graduate school applications. Then, my full attention can turn to Guatemala.

Spoon's highly anticipated album, Transference, doesn't come out until Jan 18th, but NPR has an exclusive first listen. Tune in with me below!

Also on NPR, check out Laura Veirs' July Flame, written from her barn in Portland, Oregon. You may have heard Veirs with the Decemberist's on Crane Wife or on one of her solo creations, Saltbreakers and Year of Meteors.

In December, Drinking Horchata

2010-01-06T09:47:00.000-08:00

Bored at work? Listen to Vampire Weekend's new album, Contra. This album, and a little help from the glass of Malbec to my right, is getting me through the last of my graduate school essays. Three more to go then I can start packing for Guatemala.

Embracing Cultural Embrace

2010-01-05T18:11:00.000-08:00

Having been home for the holidays, I've gained a second wind and am ready for another adventure. I've been working with Cultural Embrace to set up the internship details that will guide my stay in Antigua, Guatemala. Starting January 18th, I will live with a host family in Antigua while simultaneously working with Cultural Embrace's HUG (Help Understand Give) initiative and fulfilling a multimedia journalism and promotions internship.

My job in Guatemala will be two-fold. I will act as a liaison between the orphanage and Cultural Embrace while concurrently documenting my experience, blogging at least once a week, and spreading the word about Cultural Embrace's altruistic initiatives to the curious, like-minded souls that I meet along the way.

Thanks to generous donations, determined volunteers, and CE founder, Emlyn Lee's passionate vision to "Discover the Similarities...Share the Differences," Cultural Embrace has been able to establish working relationships with communities in Guatemala that are desperately in need of support from the international community. While there are many places in need, I will be assigned to a make-shift orphanage in San Mateo, a village outside of Antigua. The orphanage supports and educates 46 children who would otherwise be displaced or abandoned. If you'd like to learn more or donate to the cause, read Emlyn's blog. You can also see what Keith Ferrazzi, a New York Times best seller and fervid philanthropist, did during his service trip with Cultural Embrace by visiting his popular blog.